Twenty-four hours in Mauritius
As always, the sight of those jagged mountains made me all teary as the plane came in to land. I arrived yesterday on time, despite a late departure, at 4.30pm in Mauritius. Faisal’s silhouette (that distinctive Muslim beard) was a welcome site at the airport as I searched around for someone I recognised. It was nice to see him again - Faisal is our favourite taxi driver in Mauritius. He lives local to us and took us all around the south of the island in 2003, and still remembers my parents, and asks after them. He is also a good driver and that is a GOOD thing to be in Mauritius, because seatbelts in the back are not compulsory and most people drive like ratbags. I sat back and tried to relax as much as is possible when you aren’t wearing a seatbelt on the half hour drive to St Pierre, where my mother-in-law lives.
Tantine (our neighbour in Mauritius - a lovely old lady with whom I communicate in very broken creole) was so pleased to see me! Anita had kept my visit a surprise - and true to form, in addition to being pleased to see me she told me I had become very fat! Ah Mauritians, don’t you love that candour!
Anita prepared a mild chicken dish for me, with peas and onions (a bit like the way Mike now cooks in Melbourne - maybe she picked it up from him on her last visit), with side dishes of yummy vegetable achard and watercress salad. She remembered my passion for ginger ale and had bought some specially for me. I so don’t want to go to London and Italy - and I really mean that. I feel very happy being here…
Despite the ruddy canine symphony which woke me at 1.00am this morning. I do not remember this amount of ruddy dogs barking from my previous visits. The next sound that woke me was so much more beautiful - the sound of the Muslim call to prayer at some time around 5.00am, when the roosters were crowing too. Such a divine sound, haunting and peaceful at the same time, followed by complete silence (and then ruddy dogs again).
I decided to get up and walk up to the sugar cane fields at 5.45am, because it was light and I could no longer sleep. I wish I hadn’t, for I discovered two abandoned kittens by the roadside and could not leave them there. I carried them home (one was nearly dead) and found a box for them. At 9.00am Faisal picked me up and we took them to the MSPCA, where I know they’ll be put down, but what could I do? They were still blind and looking to suckle. Not a happy start to the day…
Assuaged in part by shopping in St Pierre and Port Louis (the capital). A dress, the lovely pieces of fabric I was especially looking out for at only 100 rupees ($4) - cheaper than what Mike paid in 2004 (so I am a good shopper!), a drum necklace for Mike, some other goodies which might end up as Christmas presents, so no clues there, bags, a T-shirt with the Post Office stamps for me, and already enough books to sink a ship.
Hot and a bit tired (it’s about mid-twenties but always hotter and more stuffy in Port Louis) I found the old ship chandlers shop of Mr Appavou and he was still there, and remembered me. We met him in 2003 and he had many stories to tell. He made me sit down and drink a lovely cold drink, gave me a packet of biscuits as a gift and told me that Mauritius is no longer good. Business is not so good and everyone is finding it hard. If you are a tourist, fine, but a local, no. This makes me very sad to hear it from Mr Appavoo, who must be in this eighties now.
Caught the bus home, the scenic route again through Mt Ory and the back blocks of Moka, the garden and waterfall district of Mauritius, and caught up with Tantine, sitting outside her house with Kehlina, three, who must be her great great grandaughter. Ragini, Kehlina’s mother (who is young enough to be my daughter I am sure - ah, I feel so old) must have thought I looked hot and tired and invited me for a cold Coke. Very refreshing, and nice to just sit and chat.
So home at last. It’s just passed 4.30pm on Wednesday and I have been here for twenty-four lovely hours and I wish I was staying here for many more.
I am sitting at your desk right now, feeling very jealous! Hope the rest of your trip continues in the pleasant way it started.
Oh I remember Mr Appavoo. Stories of grim times in Mauritius. Heroism. Has anyone written the history of Mauritius? Mr.A was talking about a time when people were being hunted and his ancestor hid large numbers in underground bunkers.
Sounds like you are having a wonderful time so far. Hmmm…The sounds of Anita’s achard makes my mouth water.
Glad that you are feeling o.k. enjoy London
Thank you Ailie. I’m not so sure about London - dirty, smelly and expensive - that’s how I feel after one day. Was considering the title of my next blog post to be - “Call me Dr Johnson” (’When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life’).
This time I understood everything Mr Appavoo said Mon!
Very nice achard Gen, and as she served it up she said she always thinks of you when she makes/eats vegetable achard!
Oh, Helen…I just checked your weblog on the off-chance that you may have posted something and was rewarded with the wonderful tale of your arrival in Mauritius and now I’d like to visit there more than ever! I’m SO glad you arrived safely and I can understand why you didn’t want to trade it for London. I’m sending wishes for continued safe travels and for your next book, my vote goes to Mr. Appavoo and his history.
Barb, I’m glad you enjoyed the post - I had you in mind after you talked about living vicariously through my holiday blog posts! If I can grab some time over the next few days I will go on about London too!
Hi Helen! Like everyone else I enjoyed reading your post. I feel like I could sit down with Mr Appavoo or any of your friends and relatives and have a good ol’ chat even though I’ve never met them. And speaking of relatives, perhaps some of my relatives in Italy have Mauritian blood as they too speak their minds without censorship. I’m recalling a great uncle who told my friend that she should drink more wine as she was too flat chested. And another who looking at my nose inquired ‘did i fall over as a child and get that bump?’. I could go on. Anyhow, I’m sure now that you’re in London there’s none of that, xx rach
Hi Helen,
It was wonderful to read of your stay in Mauritius and to know that you felt so happy and comfortable there. How thoughtful of Anita to cook food she knew you liked. Tantine sounds gorgeous. It is obvious that you can still find bargains in Mauritius. Anyhow, continue to have a great trip and we look forward to hearing more of your adventures.
Ooroo,
Rosemary
Rachel, it is good to know that it happens elsewhere! No, none of that in London. I have for the most part had pleasant exchanges with folk in London, and these little moments of pleasantry and kindness are very valuable one comes to realise.
Thank you Rosemary. I really must do a London post, but will wait till I’ve been to Tate Britain tomorrow and had my interview with Mauritius News!
Time to fill us in on your latest adventures. I’m having withdrawal symptoms